Karin Castens

LEGENDARY INTERVIEW

Design Legends ("DL") had the distinct honour to interview legendary designer Karin Castens ("KC") for their original perspective and innovative approach to design as well as their creative lifestyle, we are very pleased to share our interview with our distinguished readers.

DL: Could you please tell us a bit about your design background and education?

KC : I was a creative child, drawing constantly and therefore went to schools and courses which supported this. After high school, where I finished my arts exam with the highest degree, I went on to an art school, where I studied construction of sewing patterns and drawing – and where I for the first time had jewelers tools in my hands! From university I hold a Masters’ degree in Communications and History of Arts and carried on to the Institute of Precious Metals, where I fought for my right to combine beauty and meaningfulness in a piece of jewellery. It was a fight, because I was expected to create pieces of art, which related to the body – and beauty was considered somewhat suspect.

DL: What motivates you to design in general, why did you become a designer?

KC : It is actually hard NOT to! Shapes and lines inspire me to dig out my notepad and I often see items (of cause mostly jewellery) where I think “great idea – but seriously bad execution. If I would have done it, it would have looked like…” and that is the starting point for some of my designs. In the end they are 100% unrecognizable from the initial idea and carry their very own identity.

DL: Did you choose to become a designer, or you were forced to become one?

KC : I have tried to be a lot of other things, but kept coming back to creating jewellery. I guess it is my calling and I have stopped struggling against it.

DL: What do you design, what type of designs do you wish to design more of?

KC : I create jewellery of the soft, romantic sort. I would love to create grander pieces within that framework, such as (more) tiaras and large necklaces.

DL: What should young designers do to become a design legend like you?

KC : Don’t expect world dominion within the first couple of years, but just work humbly creating a LARGE body of work. You might think that you have gotten the techniques under your belt – in 5 years you will look back at your designs now and think “aww… cute!” So just create as much as you can as fast as possible in order to get to the stage where you create the substantial designs.

DL: What distinguishes between a good designer and a great designer?

KC : Good = it works very well Great = It works very well, is beautiful and a totally new way of solving a problem

DL: What makes a good design a really good design, how do you evaluate good design?

KC : Good design is when functionality and beauty meet in a comfortable way which is never a nuisance in everyday life. This is also why I never use sharp angles and points in my designs, such as claw settings. The softness of a closed setting is much more gentle to live with and will therefore only please, not irritate.

DL: What is the value of good design? Why should everyone invest in good design?

KC : I would claim a higher quality of life! Isn’t that worth paying for?

DL: What would you design and who would you design for if you had the time?

KC : I would design tiaras for royalty!

DL: What is the dream project you haven’t yet had time to realize?

KC : A collection of jewellery inspired by the stories of Hans Christian Andersen

DL: What is your secret recipe of success in design, what is your secret ingredient?

KC : Don’t think too much in the initial stages – feel. It has to FEEL right. Then you can figure out how to make it happen afterwards.

DL: Who are some other design masters and legends you get inspired from?

KC : Lalique, Arje Griegst and Torben Hardenberg

DL: What are your favorite designs by other designers, why do you like them?

KC : I love when designers get to work on both architecture as well as furniture – a gesamtkunstwerk. Examples are houses by Victor Horta or William Morris. Everything is coherent and nothing looks out of place.

DL: What is your greatest design, which aspects of that design makes you think it is great?

KC : My al time favorite is the Primavera ring – a cocktail ring, which features a very beautiful yellow citrine, depicting the sun. It is placed at a 45 degree angle and held above the finger in an airy basket setting made of white gold. From beneath, small yellow gold sprouts - tipped with green peridots - wind their way up towards the warmth of the citrine sun. It is stunning and tells a story of joy and hope at the end of the winter.

DL: How could people improve themselves to be better designers, what did you do?

KC : Draw and test a LOT of different solutions before committing to the one you want to produce.

DL: If you hadn’t become a designer, what would you have done?

KC : Most likely work with advertising, but I would have loved to become an artist or writer.

DL: How do you define design, what is design for you?

KC : Design is when a product goes from being merely functional to working extra smart while being extra pleasant to the eye. Design isn’t just “pinking” – putting a certain color or pattern on a given product and now it “looks nice”. Form and function should work closely together, tuning into a logical, aesthetic unity.

DL: Who helped you to reach these heights, who was your biggest supporter?

KC : My father was my investor the first 5-6 years and together with my boyfriend, who supported me through those first hard years, they made it possible. Creating jewellery is extremely expensive to get started with and so it would never have been possible without these two men in my life!

DL: What helped you to become a great designer?

KC : Unwavering faith that my designs were very, very good. I question so many of my abilities, but never my designs as such.

DL: What were the obstacles you faced before becoming a design master?

KC : Convincing myself to have faith in myself and my design and then take the leap.

DL: How do you think designers should present their work?

KC : As coherently as possible

DL: What’s your next design project, what should we expect from you in future?

KC : I am dreaming about creating a series of pieces inspired by the stories of Hans Christian Andersen – possibly brooches with cut out details of gems or mother of pearl.

DL: What’s your ultimate goal as a designer?

KC : To be a household name

DL: What people expect from an esteemed designer such as yourself?

KC : Excellent craftsmanship and divine inspiration

DL: How does design help create a better society?

KC : First and foremost: Do you contribute to making your customer a happier person? If my design elevates the user’s mental wellbeing, this will spill over into his or her life will all sorts of positive side effects. Plus if in any way possible: When creating the product, try to work as sensible as you can: Use renewable materials or materials sourced in ethically sustainable ways. Make sure your employees work in a safe and pleasant environment (happy employees = better products) and above all: Be kind!

DL: What are you currently working on that you are especially excited about?

KC : I am currently working on a new collection called CUPIDO. So far it consists of a pendant which also can be worn as a choker when put on a satin band plus earrings. In future there will also be a ring plus possibly a bracelet. I hope to launch the collection within a month or two!

DL: Which design projects gave you the most satisfaction, why?

KC : The above mentioned Primavera ring

DL: What would you like to see changed in design industry in the coming years?

KC : A hub where interesting new materials are pied with providers, making it possible to work with these materials straight away instead of using oceans of time trying to figure out WHO can provide it.

DL: Where do you think the design field is headed next?

KC : Bigger and better + sustainability

DL: How long does it take you to finalize a design project?

KC : A quickie would be 2 hours, most around 1-2 days, a few several months

DL: When you have a new design project, where do you start?

KC : Drawings – lots and lots of drawings!

DL: What is your life motto as a designer?

KC : If I can dream it, I can build it!

DL: Do you think design sets the trends or trends set the designs?

KC : The hen or the egg…

DL: What is the role of technology when you design?

KC : I only rarely use 3D design and occasionally adjustments through Photoshop, but mostly it is all rather old fashioned: pen and paper, a saw, pliers, hammers, a torch, files and polish.

DL: What kind of design software and equipment do you use in your work?

KC : Photoshop

DL: What is the role of the color, materials and ambient in design?

KC : Inspirational

DL: What do you wish people to ask about your design?

KC : “How did you come up with that idea?”

DL: When you see a new great design or product what comes into your mind?

KC : Deep respect of the designer!

DL: Who is your ideal design partner? Do you believe in co-design?

KC : I don’t know. I believe in me designing and then having partners who understand my drawings and the thoughts behind and are able to create it in real life. Which is not an easy feat!

DL: Which people you interacted had the most influence on your design?

KC : Arje Griegst

DL: Which books you read had the most effect on your design?

KC : Books on art nouveau

DL: How did you develop your skills as a master designer?

KC : Some schooling and a LOT of trial and error!

DL: Irrelative of time and space, who you would want to meet, talk and discuss with?

KC : Lalique, for sure!!!

DL: How do you feel about all the awards and recognition you had, is it hard to be famous?

KC : No, it’s a blast!

DL: What is your favorite color, place, food, season, thing and brand?

KC : Green, the forest, a lamb roast, my daughter van Cleef & Arpel

DL: Please tell us a little memoir, a funny thing you had experienced as a designer?

KC : This story is NOT funny, but moving: A customer brought me most of her jewellery, asking me to take it apart and create ONE big bracelet for her. She had terminal cancer and wanted to wear ALL her jewellery from her beloved husband for the rest of her life. She also showed me a diamond ring and told me, that when she was gone, her husband would bring it by in order for me to set it into one of my signature designs – the Dragonling. Then it was to be given to her sister in order to look after and protect her, now my customer wouldn’t be around. 5 months after I gave her the finished bracelet (which she loved), her husband brought me the diamond ring. I took the order, said my condolences and after he left the shop, I sat down and cried. She was such an amazing human and so brave faced with her own demise…

DL: What makes your day great as a designer, how do you motivate yourself?

KC : By day is the very best when I don’t spend it at the computer but at my bench, creating prototypes. These are my honeypots, which I look forward too and keep me motivated.

DL: When you were a little child, was it obvious that you would become a great designer?

KC : It was absolutely obvious that I would work within some sort of creative area!

DL: What do you think about future; what do you see will happen in thousand years from now?

KC : Either the planet will be in an post-ap period or we will have solved the issues of poverty, illness and pollution

DL: Please tell us anything you wish your fans to know about you, your design and anything else?

KC : I live with my Finnish boyfriend, whom I met playing World of Warcraft, my teenage daughter and our 2 cats in the northern part of Copenhagen. My bike is green and so is my nail polish when I am on vacation (not possible when working with precious metals!)