Design Legends ("DL") had the distinct honour to interview legendary designer Olga Yatskaer ("OY") for their original perspective and innovative approach to design as well as their creative lifestyle, we are very pleased to share our interview with our distinguished readers.
OY : I studied jewelry design as well as multiple techniques such as metalworking, enameling, modeling and others at Arts et Metiers in Brussels. Subsequently, I took two more years of private lessons in high jewelry and stonesetting.
OY : Since I was a little girl, I really liked drawing. I’ve been drawing at every occasion, especially new patterns, crossings and combinations of colors. I studied history and am a professional historian. One day there was a ball in my university, and I had to find some jewelry to fit the robe. It took a while but nothing was really fitting. And then I took a piece of paper and made a sketch just for fun, trying to imagine how this piece of jewelry could look like. The sketch looked quite interesting to me. Shortly after I started my attempts in the fantasy jewelry, first to create pieces that I would like myself to wear. Eventually I faced the limits of fantasy jewelry, and tried to materialize my sketches into professional jewelry pieces. It took some time to learn the necessary techniques and to get enough experience to become a professional jewelry designer.
OY : I chose to become a designer myself and am happy about it. When someone is forced to be a designer against her will, this must be really tough and even impossible to become one.
OY : My passion and profession is the jewelry design. Something I aimed for during my whole life.
OY : Don’t be afraid to express yourself. Don’t be afraid to improve yourself and learn something new, even if it is complicated and takes time. Don’t stop and keep moving forward. And when you start growing and get recognition, remember your early days and those who were at your side and help you reach the success. And one more thing: “you are there for the clients”, not “clients are there for you”.
OY : Both good and great designers should have creative skills, such as the feeling of style, a rich fantasy, a taste, and a positive mindset. But great designers should have practical skills as well, such as understanding the client, patience, being accurate, attentive, doing things on time, knowing how to present the designs efficiently and how to communicate.
OY : When I’m looking at a jewelry piece made by my colleagues, I first evaluate it on my subjective feeling. That is, if I had this piece, would I like to wear it myself? And then I look at other aspects. Is it wearable at all? How original is the piece? How well are the colors, stones and other elements selected and combined together? And if this is not yet a readily made piece but still a project, I’m also looking how feasible it is to produce the piece.
OY : The people always aim at something new and interesting. Without investments, there won’t be enough motivation to advance and to grow creatively. Some designs are even impossible to materialize without an investment, particularly the jewelry pieces.
OY : I am happy to create my designs for people who appreciate good jewelry. As a designer, I am responsible to manage my time and to make sure that I have enough time to do my designs.
OY : I dream for my jewelry to reach thousands of people worldwide, and for them to enjoy my designs. This is what I have created my company Queensberg for.
OY : Keep all what is necessary and drop everything that is excessive. I know it sounds easy but it is not, especially for creative people.
OY : I learned to appreciate the harmonic simplicity from Georg Jensen, to admire beautiful shapes from René Lalique, and to design in many different styles simultaneously from Ilias Lalaounis.
OY : Out of jewelry designs, I would name Heritage Jewelry pieces by Georg Jensen. They are really timeless. I love to wear them myself. The colors and shapes are soft and harmonious. The designs look appealing and different, yet there is nothing excessive. All these aspects make them great.
OY : Out of all my designs, “Eternal Union” will always remain special for me for many reasons. First, it is a simple shape, yet something that never existed before. It has two different optical illusions in one design. Secondly, this is my first-ever internationally awarded design, which just created so much more visibility and recognition to my work literally overnight, thanks to “A’ Design Award”.
OY : Unleash your creativity, keep on learning and don’t be afraid of new things. This is what helped me.
OY : I would still be a historian, which is my first education, or a psychologist, which is my second education. But I would continue doing my sketches and designs, dreaming to become a jewelry designer one day.
OY : For me, the design is a song of my soul, a flight of my fantasy without any limits, the world behind the mirror. This is an opportunity to convert my dreams and inside feelings into something tangible, a self-expression. It is related to harmonious comprehension of something around me. It is one more way of communication to the people, to the outside world. It is like playing with a magic stick, when you just imagine something and then it appears out of nowhere.
OY : My biggest supporter was my family. I am thankful to them for all love and patience. My family helped me believe in myself and take a chance to completely change my profession and become a jewelry designer. I’m really thankful to my professors who guided me through all different jewelry techniques and helped me acquire the necessary skills, and to my friends who always supported me. And certainly to “A’ Design Award” contest, which is a great support to promote my designs, and the entire team behind it.
OY : Patience with a grain of perfectionism, and a lot of optimism
OY : For a historian, the world of jewelry design looked quite mysterious and closed, maybe just like the world of academic history does for jewelry designers. But when you try, it opens up and you find many good people who are willing to help you grow as a designer.
OY : As far as jewelry design is concerned, the presentation should be interesting for any viewer, no matter if she is a design professional or someone who just likes jewelry. It should showcase the actual piece as closely as possible to reality and highlight its strong sides. A catchy name for the design is important for the presentation as well.
OY : One of the next projects is a new collection of metal-only designs. Most of these designs will have several pieces in every set, such as pendants, earrings, rings and bracelets. Meanwhile, I will of course continue creating new designs with precious stones and enamel as well. I have plenty of new sketches in my notebook, and it keeps on growing as the new ideas keep on coming.
OY : To create jewelry pieces that people will appreciate even in 100 years from now.
OY : From a jewelry designer, I think they expect to find some appealing jewelry pieces, whether for themselves, their loved ones or their friends.
OY : “Beauty will save the world” (Dostoevsky)
OY : From the most immediate ones, the Eternal Union pendant is going to get siblings. There are earrings coming up, and the work on a ring design is in progress as well.
OY : Eternal Union, because this was my first design to get an international award.
OY : I believe that people will get more and more tired of similarity and aim at highlighting their individuality further. This would certainly reflect into the design industry.
OY : First of all, I believe there is no such thing as a single worldwide “design field”. The evolution is really different from one region to another, and from one design category to another. As an example, the jewelry design trends in Belgium are different from those in Dubai, and both differ from those in South Africa or in Canada. On a global scale, I see several trends. One is that anyone can get anything anywhere anytime and almost immediately, with emergence of mobile channels. It is now so much faster and cheaper for creative people to get their ideas spread around the globe. Therefore, more new talents can get known at faster pace than it was even in the last decade, let alone the last century. It’s a kind of YouTube’isation of design if you will. But with the multitude of talents comes the challenge of the choice. And only the very best ones will really make it to the worldwide fame…like it has always been. Another trend, especially with millennials, is the aim for designs that are practical and cool, but not necessarily expensive. This trend is particularly visible in the jewelry design.
OY : It all depends on the design complexity. In my case, the first sketch would take between a few hours and a few days. The same concerns the 3D design. But I only consider the design as completed when the first jewelry piece has been produced. And sometimes this might take even a few weeks.
OY : In most cases, I just get an idea and draw a sketch using a pencil and a sheet of paper. I like using pencil, because this is how I can easily translate my thoughts and emotions onto paper, and I can always erase something and change it. Then, depending on the design, I would either create the piece manually, or proceed with the 3D modeling.
OY : Improve myself
OY : I think this is a spiral-shaped evolution, and that not every design can set the trend. Great designs sets the new trends, which on its turn set new designs (whether great or otherwise), and again new great designs lead to new trends.
OY : For a jewelry designer, technology is very useful to reflect all finest details, while ensuring that the design would be practical in production and finishing. To create complex pieces, I do like using 3D modelling. If it was not for 3D, quite a few of my ideas would likely still remain on paper - because it is either technically impossible or would take tremendous effort to create them manually with the desired precision and proportions.
OY : As a designer I have my paper, pencil and a lot of books as well. For 3D modeling, Gemvision Matrix is my favorite. As a jeweler I have to use dozens of tools and machines, in order to materialize any design idea that I might have.
OY : In jewelry design, the role of color and materials is to create harmony and to highlight the individuality of the person wearing it, whether through different metals, precious stones or enamel. It is very specific to the jewelry designs that the material adds value on its own, and can even be a centerpiece of the design.
OY : Where and how can we get this piece?
OY : First, I ask myself where and how it could be used, and how different it is.
OY : So far I created the designs myself. An ideal design partner is someone who could be at the same wavelength and is a real team player. I believe co-design must be possible in jewelry, however it seems to be rare.
OY : My designs reflect the way I see the outside world, therefore I would not name particular people who would have direct influence on my designs.
OY : Indirectly, there could be influence from my historian background and numerous materials that I studied and analyzed in that job.
OY : I continuously tried many different ideas while always learning something new.
OY : I would want to meet these guys who invented Cycladic figurines, as I’m curious what did they really mean? And maybe the Atlantes as well, just to find out if they really existed :)
OY : This is my very first award, and I feel surrealistic about this recognition that I could only dream of.
OY : My favorite color is dark blue. My home town is my favorite place to live, and London is my favorite place to visit. I like ice cream and Belgian chocolate. I love springtime. There are many great brands that are my favorites, therefore I won’t mention any particular one amongst them, out of respect to the other ones.
OY : This is something from my earliest design experience. When I was 3 years old, my father chased a gravure. And as the parents were in the kitchen, I got hold of his instruments, took a chisel and a hammer. Improving the design of a vintage chair was real fun… luckily enough my father noticed it just as I wanted to proceed with the second chair :)
OY : If I have created a new interesting design today, this was a great day. I motivate myself through hoping that someone will enjoy this particular design and appreciate wearing this particular piece.
OY : Maybe not. But I always amazed by my grandmothers’ jewelry boxes, these were like treasure chests. I loved watching and touching the jewelry, and I’d put it on my puppets too.
OY : Earthlings will still design something, maybe for our neighbor galaxies as well :)
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