Martha Calderon

LEGENDARY INTERVIEW

Design Legends ("DL") had the distinct honour to interview legendary designer Martha Calderon ("MC") for their original perspective and innovative approach to design as well as their creative lifestyle, we are very pleased to share our interview with our distinguished readers.

DL: Could you please tell us a bit about your design background and education?

MC : I received my bachelors in Fine Arts with an emphasis in Print-making. After completing my degree, I decided to expand my skills by making my artwork more functional and moved to California to become a designer. After receiving my fashion/textile degree at FIDM, I was selected to attend the Advanced Fashion Design program where I had the opportunity to create my first knitwear collection.

DL: What motivates you to design in general, why did you become a designer?

MC : I became a designer because I wanted to make my art more functional.

DL: Did you choose to become a designer, or you were forced to become one?

MC : I chose to become one, but I identify myself more as an artist

DL: What do you design, what type of designs do you wish to design more of?

MC : I love designing full fashion knits for any market, but lately I enjoy more designing soft jewelry with my knit scraps and other high quality materials that are not big enough for clothing, but they are perfect for accessories.

DL: What distinguishes between a good designer and a great designer?

MC : A great designer knows how to stand out from a crowd of good designers. What makes them great is their unique process and innovative ideas.

DL: What makes a good design a really good design, how do you evaluate good design?

MC : when a design has a social and an environmental positive impact.

DL: What is the value of good design? Why should everyone invest in good design?

MC : I think that you should invest in a good design because quality always will be more important than quantity, if you have a design that is unique in every way made with high quality materials, you would be supporting local designers and most likely helping the environment.

DL: What would you design and who would you design for if you had the time?

MC : I would like to design for people that care about the environment and appreciate hand-made work.

DL: What is your secret recipe of success in design, what is your secret ingredient?

MC : being flexible with the materials I have and get the best from them.

DL: Who are some other design masters and legends you get inspired from?

MC : I have always been inspired by artisan work from indigenous people. I have also been inspired by the architectural work of Frank Gehry.

DL: What are your favorite designs by other designers, why do you like them?

MC : I love the Disney Concert Hall of Frank Gehry because it's innovative and sculptural. I'm also a fan of surrealism art.

DL: What is your greatest design, which aspects of that design makes you think it is great?

MC : My Frank Gehry inspired winter coat has been one of my best works. It captures everything that I love about my knitwear.

DL: How could people improve themselves to be better designers, what did you do?

MC : As a designer you should always find new challenges, try new things, stay out of your comfort zone. If you don't try something new everyday, you will never know what you are capable of.

DL: If you hadn’t become a designer, what would you have done?

MC : I'm very geeky, programming sounds interesting or may be a science related field.

DL: How do you define design, what is design for you?

MC : creating innovating things that people can interact with.

DL: Who helped you to reach these heights, who was your biggest supporter?

MC : My parents always told me since I was little that I was an artist, so I thank them for giving me the confidence in believing that. Also, when I went back to school to get my designer degree, my husband supported me all the way and still he is my biggest supporter.

DL: What helped you to become a great designer?

MC : My instructors in high school, college, and at the university of Florida always told me to stay in this path and continue creating.

DL: What were the obstacles you faced before becoming a design master?

MC : I struggled to put my self through school because I didn't have the means to do it, but I was lucky to find the ways to make it happen.

DL: What’s your next design project, what should we expect from you in future?

MC : Hopefully I will be designing more wearable art and participating in more showcases or fashion shows.

DL: What’s your ultimate goal as a designer?

MC : I just want to keep designing high quality garments more often, it makes me very happy to see others wearing my designs.

DL: What people expect from an esteemed designer such as yourself?

MC : Non-traditional knitwear, always bringing new concepts to change people's perception about knits.

DL: How does design help create a better society?

MC : Anything you design should reflect your views and what you stand for. As an artist every piece should make an statement and inspire others in a positive way, in my situation I hope that people understand the importance of creating things from re-purposing materials and lowering the foot print. I also want to represent the best of my country; a cheerful and colorful side of Colombia.

DL: What are you currently working on that you are especially excited about?

MC : I'm working on a wedding gown inspired by Comics. I cannot disclose any details, but it will debut at the San Diego Comic-Con this summer.

DL: Which design projects gave you the most satisfaction, why?

MC : Last year at Comic-con, I had the honor to showcase a Wedding gown inspired by Pokemon which came out in the New York Times, it was so exciting to see my design on the news paper.

DL: What would you like to see changed in design industry in the coming years?

MC : I would love to see fast fashion disappear. There are so many negative aspects about this and not only is hurting independent designers, but most importantly we are generating too much waste.

DL: Where do you think the design field is headed next?

MC : I'm very concern about artificial intelligence and how this will affect us in some way. I try to get the best out of the present and design as much as possible every day.

DL: How long does it take you to finalize a design project?

MC : I could take me hours sometimes weeks.

DL: When you have a new design project, where do you start?

MC : I start playing with the fabric or yarns then I start sketching my ideas that are mostly inspired by the texture and color of the fabric.

DL: What is your life motto as a designer?

MC : The less you complain about how hard things are the more you will get done.

DL: Do you think design sets the trends or trends set the designs?

MC : I think it works either way. In my situation I'm not a big fan of following trends, you should be able to wear what you like and be yourself.

DL: What is the role of technology when you design?

MC : Programming on Stoll is the future of knitwear. It's very important for me to keep my self up to date with new technologies for knitwear designers.

DL: What kind of design software and equipment do you use in your work?

MC : I have used Stoll machines in the past, but as an independent designer, they are not very accessible. I hope in the future I would be able to incorporate these machines more often into my work.

DL: What do you wish people to ask about your design?

MC : About the structure of the fabric which is my are of expertise.

DL: Who is your ideal design partner? Do you believe in co-design?

MC : I love collaborating with other artists and designers. Being humble and open to learn or share with other designers will make you a better designer.

DL: Which people you interacted had the most influence on your design?

MC : My instructors.

DL: Which books you read had the most effect on your design?

MC : A book called "Survey of History Costume" which has given me a new perception and a better appreciation of what we wear.

DL: What is your favorite color, place, food, season, thing and brand?

MC : I like so many things, it's hard to choose one thing of each. As a designer you should never limit yourself because you will ran out of ideas or reasons to create new things.

DL: What makes your day great as a designer, how do you motivate yourself?

MC : I try to be outdoors as much as possible to feel peaceful and over stimulated. Being with nature makes me want to create more. When I don't have anything to offer, I go back out there to get my creativity running again.

DL: When you were a little child, was it obvious that you would become a great designer?

MC : Yes, I have always been exposed to this world, but never felt as a great designer just different with new things to offer.

DL: What do you think about future; what do you see will happen in thousand years from now?

MC : I don't think people will care anymore about fashion rules and trends, eventually people would want to feel unique in every way.

DL: Please tell us anything you wish your fans to know about you, your design and anything else?

MC : I want people to learn more about knitwear. There is so much more about knits than ugly sweaters. I would love to change that negative perception and share my futuristic, non-traditional knitwear with others.